Or, the ElLobo UFT (Unified Field Theory) of investing!
Over the last several weeks, we have taken a detailed look at a few important concepts as related to investing. First there was a thread on the meaning of Total Return. Then there were two postings I made concerning the use of a yield focused approach while accumulating. Then there was this latest thread concerning the use of a yield focused approach during retirement (decumulating, as it were). This final thread that I have planned will tie this all together.
It all starts with a simple equation I recently gave:
V1 = V0 +/- CG + (C + Y – W) (1)
This says that the value V1 of your portfolio at some time equals it’s value at some previous time V0, to which the capital change component of total return CG is either added to, or subtracted from. Additionally, you have to add to V0 any contributions C you made to the portfolio during that time period, as well as the yield Y (dividends and interest received) received during that time period. Finally, you have to subtract out the amount withdrawn W during the period of time. I called this the conservation of cash equation!
I previously alluded to buy, hold, and sell conditions, again related to this equation, but nobody picked up on it. Turns out that the real meat of my recent discussions is tied to this.
Accumulation:
During your accumulation phase, W is zero, since you are not taking cash out of your portfolio. You contribute cash to it (from your salary income and, maybehaps, your company matches), so C is some value. Depending on the investments your choose for your portfolio, it may have some yield Y. At any rate, (C + Y – W) is some positive number. That means you are net adding cash to your portfolio, which is the definition of accumulation!
This you do for the 40 years you typically spend in your accumulation phase. During accumulation, the cash you add to your portfolio hopefully increases in value, due to the compounding effect. You are a buy and hold investor, choosing which assets to invest in, and how much to put in each. You sell at your convenience and profit, hopefully taking advantage of over and under valued investments.
At some point in time, you may stop contributing to your portfolio. However, whatever yield is generated by your portfolio is treated exactly like new money going into it. You are still a buy and hold investor.
Retirement (Decumulation):
You are still a buy and hold investor, at least until you start withdrawing from your portfolio, and will remain a buy and hold investor, at least as long as you withdraw less than the yield. You continue to choose which assets to invest in, and how much to put in each, the cash coming from the yield that is not withdrawn, but reinvested. You sell at your convenience and profit, hopefully taking advantage of over and under valued investments.
The important thing is that you do not have to change your investment style, or strategy, once you start your withdrawal. That is, your 40 year history of buy/hold (strategic sell) can continue indefinitely!
If you withdraw more than the yield, you can still be successful. The key is to continue to sell strategically. That is, you avoid, as much as possible, being forced to sell assets in down markets.
Risks:
I’ve taken the time to start these threads based on previous threads related to investment risks. I have had discussions with many of you on the nature of specific risks, questioning you on your understanding. Let me say that ALL investment risk shows up in equation (1) above, in either of the two independent variables that you cannot control. Those variables are the capital change component CG and the yield component Y of the total return of your portfolio. And the only part of the CG component that you cannot control is share prices (fund NAVs).
The market controls share prices/NAVs, while individual companies control dividend and interest yields. You control the amount of cash C added to your portfolio, as well as the amount of cash W withdrawn from it. You also control the number of shares of each of your assets that you own. Your success in both your accumulation and decumulation phases of your life will depend on your money (cash) management skills.
Whenever people talk about risks, they typically talk about share price/NAV volatility. Indeed, this is the classical and traditional measure of risk. Let me emphatically state that volatility is not a risk over long investment time periods, falling share prices over that long time period is the risk. In fact, short term volatility can be used to your advantage, that is, to increase returns. Specifically, a highly volatile share price/NAV whose average value is rising steadily over time is an ideal investment. The reason has to do with strategic selling and buying of this asset, over time. That is, sell on or near the maxima return, buy on or near the minima.
Capitalizing on volatility:
Let’s assume you hold a certain number of shares N0 of a mutual fund, each with a NAV of P0. The equation above tells you that the value of that holding is N0 * P0, or V0. Let’s now also assume that your investment ‘strategy’ is to maintain that value over time, specifically over a long period of time.
First, over time, this fund will generate a certain amount of money (the yield Y), given by the per share yield times the number of shares owned. Assume you put that yield into a money market account, rather than re-investing it.
Over time, the value of that investment will vary as the fund NAV rises and falls (it’s volatility). To capitalize on that volatility, assume you sell off 10% of the shares your own whenever NAVs rise 10%, and you buy 11% more shares whenever NAVs fall 10%. If NAVs stay within 10%, you neither buy or sell, you simply ‘hold’ what you own, collecting yield.
If share prices continually rise over time, you end up realizing a 10% capital gain every time that gain goes above your window. You will gradually own less and less shares, but each is worth more and more than your purchase NAV. All the while, the value of that holding stays within +/-10% of V0.
If NAV volatility is greater than 10% but the long term NAV is steady, then you will gradually build up capital gains, always buying low, selling high.
You may ask how this strategy can be used to ‘grow’ your portfolio, especially during accumulation? It’s quite simple. You start with a single mutual fund, and all contributions and yield from it go into the fund, until the target amount V0 is reached. You then take all yield as cash, along with any of the realized capital gains, and invest in a second fund (along with new contributions). Reaching V0 for that second fund, go on to a third, then a fourth, and so on.
If you reach a manageable number of funds (20-25 is a good target), you can go back and double (or at least increase!) your target value V0, but I would suggest that you again sequentially increase your holdings.
Anyhow, most people ‘grow’ their portfolio vertically, that is, they hold a fund or two, contribute to each, and watch shares prices rise. The type of growth I am describing here is more horizontal. The difference is that you take advantage of NAV volatility, rather than simply living with it!
There are other advantages. First, you portfolio stays essentially equally weighted. That is, you hold equal amounts of money in each asset. Next, by choosing funds from drastically different asset classes, you are certainly well diversified. Also, the returns from each of these drastically different asset classes are probably NOT well correlated, even hopefully inversely correlated, so overall portfolio risks are reduced.
So, how do you choose asset classes (and funds/stocks to represent those classes?). First, I would choose the highest yielding fund in each class. Then I would choose the most volatile fund for each class! Finally, I would start with the highest yielding fund and work down in yield, as I add funds to my portfolio.
Next, you would not have to limit yourself to open ended mutual funds. Certainly CEFs can also be used. Likewise, individual stocks and bonds could be used, but I would use them only after most of your 20-25 asset portfolio had been constructed. That is, if an individual stock is the second asset you choose, that target amount V0 represents half of your portfolio, but if it’s the 25th, it represents only 4% of your portfolio. We’re talking risks now!
As to what that target amount should be, I suggest something in the neighborhood of 1-2 years of your contributions to your retirement portfolio. That is, if your salary is $50,000/year, you contribute 8% to your 401k, and your company matches with 4%, your annual net contribution will be $6,000, so a good target amount for V0 would be $10,000.
Likewise, if you are using mutual funds, set your gain/loss window at 10%, or $1000. Finally, if you are using CEFs or individual stocks, set your gain/loss window at the value of 100 shares.
As to suggestions for those 20-25 funds, here is my suggested list, in very rough order of purchase (after the first 4!):
1 – ADVDX
2 – IMSIX
3 – Vanguard’s 7% managed distribution fund
4 – VWEHX
5 – LV fund
6 – SV fund
7 – LG fund
8 – SG fund
9 – REIT fund
10 – Long Term Investment Grade bond fund
11 – Short Term Investment Grade bond fund
12 – World LV fund
13 – World SV fund
14 – World LG fund
15 – World SG fund
16 – World bond fund
17 – Emerging Markets equity/bond fund
18 – Convertible Securities Fund
19 – Preferred Stock fund
20 – Utility stock fund
21 – Financial Services fund
22 – Inflation Protected Securities fund
23 – BDC individual stock
24 – Canadian Energy Trust individual stock
25 – Tanker individual stock