but not in 1987. Look into using a synthetic membrane as the primary roofing material, rather than that crappy tar paper or asphalt. These newer synthetic membranes last for years, some of them for your entire life span. I'm getting mine done, and I am going to have them use the rubber membrane stuff. I don't know the technical terms for these membranes, but the roofers will know. The rubber membrane is a few millimeters thick, it's like a heavy tire innertube type of material. When you compare that to the old fashioned tar paper, there's really no comparison, is there?

Originally posted in thread: 1742

We had a black roof installed three years ago
and regret it..Estate grey would have been much better at reflecting away the heat....Our attic
became much hotter with the black roof versus the
former tan roof...

REgards,

Bob

Originally posted in thread: 1742

jayars35 provided some really good tips.

If you live in a hurricane state, I would also add roof straps to trusses if none exist, especially if impossible to get to roof edges from attic. Or said another way, I would bring roof up to current hurricane code, if applicable. With respect to insisting on nails as jayars35 recommended, I would further insist on ring shank roofing nails that are now building code required in S. FL. I saved considerable money on homeowner's insurance (slightly more than $400/yr., and savings keep accruing) by getting a detailed inspection of roof design and technical specs such as roof straps, types of nails used, etc. that cost me $150.

I have a metal roof, and it is by far the best roof of any home I owned (others had shingles or tile). More expensive than asphalt shingles or most tile, but I had zero roof damage from 3 hurricanes while many people had to replace their shingles or tiles which were blown away. I've seen hundreds of heavily damaged roofs over past 2 yrs., and only 1 was a metal roof on a commercial building (damaged in 2 out of 3 hurricanes so I suspect there is a technical design problem). Buildings along ocean w/ metal roofs also had no visible signs of roof damage.

Metal roofs are also very energy efficient due to reflective properties. I was a bit skeptical about claims that it would not be anymore noisy during heavy rain storms, but that has turned out to be true. The only thing I would change is that my metal roof is screwed down. Today, they make these metal roof panels that overlap and interlock so that roof screws are not needed. A current problem is that metal panels are in short supply due to heavy demand.

I recognize that a metal roof may not be practical when you mention you have a townhouse if all others have shingles. A few months ago, a townhouse community completely re-did all of their townhouses w/ metal roofing instead of using asphalt shingles again. I'm a bit surprised that you are having to redo your townhouse roof as this often times is covered by association.

Rob

Originally posted in thread: 1742

Make sure that you have a reputable roofer. Check around with Better Business Bureau, etc. (Asking for references may produce only good reports because the roofer won't give you the bad references.)

Get everything in writing, and signed by the company owner, if possible.

I bought the dimensional shingles because I think they add beauty to the home. The shingles I looked at had 20, 30, and 40-yr warranties. When I studied the specs, I found out that the 30 yr shingles were better quality than the 20 yr. The 40 yr shingles had identical specs to the 30 yr, but just cost more. So, I choose the 30 yr shingles.

Be as careful as you can. Make sure the contract says they will tear down to the decking, will replace all damaged deckings and will haul away all the old stuff.

I choose to have the vented ridge with the material that blocks insects (kind of like the filter on my A/C system intake vent). Much superior to the old plastic ridge vent with wire screen to block the insects; also, much more durable.

I also chose light-blue shingles.

Be prepared to pay!

-Dave

Originally posted in thread: 1742

instead of the felt paper. It lasts longer that felt paper, so I'm told. You put the membrane down, and then whatever you want on top of it, shingles, tile, whatever.

Originally posted in thread: 1742

An excellent series of posts. I am so happy I found this morningstar discussion board, where there are so many immensely helpful and knowledgeable people posting.

I would only add one thing. Consider subscribing to consumer reports.org for $26.00. They have some pretty good reports on many home improvement subjects. In fact, you might not even need to subscribe. Go there and take a look at what they have on file.

Originally posted in thread: 1742

More great advice!

Couple of additional points based on Dave's comments.

I bought the dimensional shingles because I think they add beauty to the home. The shingles I looked at had 20, 30, and 40-yr warranties. When I studied the specs, I found out that the 30 yr shingles were better quality than the 20 yr. The 40 yr shingles had identical specs to the 30 yr, but just cost more. So, I choose the 30 yr shingles.

Exact same conclusion reached by my neighbor who had to replace his roof that was destroyed by Hurricane Wilma. He thoroughly researches things like this so it reinforces what Dave is saying.

Written Proposals/Contracts

I've been helping my father who is also replacing hurricane damaged tile roof. I found it very helpful to compare written language/issues by cross checking proposals/contracts.

One particular area of concern that Dave raises is as follows:

Be as careful as you can. Make sure the contract says they will tear down to the decking, will replace all damaged deckings and will haul away all the old stuff.

Most proposals I reviewed had provisions for replacing damaged roof decking. Majority specified a minimal number of squares that were included in price, with additional damaged squares subject to a specified price. However, one contractor proposal did not list any replacement decking, and indicated unspecified additional costs would be incurred if underlay rotted decking needed to be replaced. IMO, this type contract is inviting a possible dispute and I would avoid this type arrangement if I could not negotiate an acceptable provision. Once the shingles are torn off (and if rotted decking is discovered), homeowner does not want to find self having to negotiate cost with contractor at that point as you are now over a barrel from a contract perspective.

With respect to paying, make sure that ordering materials and labor installation are staged in a series of payments, and insist upon staged payments depending on local roof inspection requirements. For example, after mop-in a roofing inspection will probably be required, and that payment (usually 2nd one) should be structured in contract to occur after such approval is received. When shingles/tiles are finally installed, once again tie payment to receipt of final roof inspection (usually 3rd and final payment). A significant problem is occurring in hurricane ravaged states in that roofers are able to complete work up to mop-in, but then having to wait for shingles/tiles that are in short supply. One concern people installing new roofs should think about (and perhaps investigate) is whether the insurance company would pay for storm/water damages if roof not fully installed. I can envision disputes if insurer paid for replacement roof, and home or roof is again damaged because roof was not fully installed should another hurricane strike. Moreover, even if I did not live in a hurricane prone state, I would not be replacing a roof if summer months are rainy without absolute assurance in contract that needed shingles/tiles to complete job are in physical possession of contractor. Most roofers will tell you that it is okay for mopped-in roof to sit exposed to direct sunlight/rain for an indefinite period while they wait for shingles/tile to be delivered. I don't buy this, and I saw a recent article quoting a local building inspector citing concerns about degradation of exposed underlay material for months while homeowners wait for contractors to receive shingles/tiles from manufacturers.

Also make sure contract specifies that all manufacturer warranties will be made available to homeowner before final payment is made. Roof contractors go out of business, so there warranties are less useful than manufacturer.

I would insist upon release of mechanic's lien in contract, especially if your area have liberal mechanic lien contractor rights. A friend is involved in a $25,000+ legal dispute for hurricane damage repairs as he fully paid contractor, but contactor did not pay material suppliers. Contractor is now out-of-business, and material suppliers filed mechanic lien's against friend's property.

Think about worker's comp/insurance coverage by contractor as you do not want to be liable should a roof worker be severely injured from a fall (neighbor had worker shoot a nail from nail gun through hand, and had to be taken to hospital).

Beyond checking BBB, ask for address of roofing jobs completed by roofer. Might want to take a drive-by look or even talk to homeowner if happens to be outside. I also had my father check local building dept. to see if there were any unresolved problems concerning roofer we anticipated using.

After roof installed and before final payment, I would either pray for a heavy rain or hose down roof. Much easier to get a leak fixed before all money is paid to contractor. My neighbor had minor leak on newly replaced roof, and contractor came back to make necessary repairs.

Rob

Originally posted in thread: 1742

that no complaints at the BBB means the company is a good one. My business was contacted by the BBB about becoming a member. If we did not agree to pay the membership fee, they would not give us any reference, good or bad.
James

Originally posted in thread: 1742